Sunday, December 12, 2010

Happiness is in the eye of the socket

Denmark is the happiest country in the world. So claims a 2006 report written by Adrian White at the University of Leicester. Recently, the Gallup World poll again put Denmark on top of the list. Why are Danes so happy (or content, as some assert)? Is it the social safety net? Is it the time off? Is it the social ties?

We can never know the answers to these questions. Never know them, that is, unless someone choses to read the report's results section and methodology, or a good analysis of it.  Uh, yeah.  So.  Short of that, let me offer you my theory about why the Danes are happy.

It's their electrical outlets.

Thursday, December 2, 2010

A conversation with Søren Elle

Copenhagen wasn't always the world capital of bicycling.  In the early 1970s she faced the same automobile-related pressures that many other cities struggle with today: noise, pollution, congestion, and deteriorating street life.  Traffic planner Søren Elle began work in 1972, and over the past 38 years he has overseen the transformation of Copenhagen into a model of sustainable transportation policy, including the installation of hundreds of miles of bicycle tracks.


I recently had the opportunity to speak with Søren about his experiences, and about some of the challenges that Copenhagen faces going forward.  This is a transcription of that conversation.


My questions are in italics.

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DevelopersWhen you’re working on bicycle projects in places like Ørestad, where there’s a developer who has a plan, what’s your relationship like with those developers and how much influence do you have over the final design of the streets and the buildings?

I wouldn’t say “I,” I would say “we” as the Municipality of Copenhagen.  When we want to develop new areas we talk all the way, the discussions with the developers all way through the project, designing the project to fit into our traffic policy and details.  In the end we have to give planning permission, and we make the final [inaudible] and do exactly what we want to in the question of bicycle tracks, bicycle parking, everything about bicycling.  So it’s a nice conversation through a long period.  We do recommend it to the last meter, the last square meter of bicycle facilities. 

Does that include facilities in the building?

Yes.  Primarily parking.

And that’s overseen by your department or another one?

No, it’s not my department, it’s the City of Copenhagen, which is split up into many, and the city plan, the municipal plan for Copenhagen is designed here, in my department.  Another department, Traffic and the Environment, design the details of these policies, given the Lord Mayor’s proposals get a majority in the local parliament.

PoliticalHas that been a problem in the past, getting majority approval for designs or projects that you think are good?  Are there examples where that didn’t happen?

There are opposition against it.  For example, if you built bicycle tracks along a shopping street, we often find the room in the street for this two and a half meter wide cycle track by taking away the parking possibilities in front of the shops.  So the shop keepers are not for this plan.  But the majority in the parliament is for the plan.  So we build those cycle tracks then in Copenhagen.

I imagine that’s helped by the fact that so many people here bicycle.  When you first started working on installing cycle tracks in Copenhagen, was there that kind of political support or was that a harder fight then?

We’ve been very lucky.  We’ve had close to consensus about the policy in Copenhagen since the Second World War.  So it’s really easy to be a traffic planner in that aspect.  You have to make a lot of good designs to get approved by a majority in the parliament, but it’s been a very positive approach to anything about cycling.  So I started off here 38 years ago, and since then we’ve doubled the bicycle traffic, it was at a high level before that, but now we more than doubled it.  So it has not been a big problem.  But I should say that if you start off by this kind of planning in any other city you’ll see some problems because…during the war everybody was cycling.  You just took the train or the bike.  Most used the bike.  We had huge amounts of bikers in 1945.  We were a very poor country, and we had a tax policy so we had a special offer for you if you wanted to buy a car: you can do that, you pay for two or three cars.  So for a poor population getting that they should pay for three cars, nobody bought a car.  We had a very, and still have a very low car ownership in Copenhagen.  That’s a gift if you want to improve bicycling facilities.  So in the lowest point in 1975, thirty years after the world war, we still had a lot of cycling.  By then we enforced the ideas of putting more cycle tracks and so on, and raised since 1975 to 2000…we doubled the amount of bicycling traffic.  Most of this period the car ownership didn’t grow.   We’re still a poor city, poor inhabitants, we still have to pay for three cars when we buy one.  So for 25 years, from ’70 to ’95 we had no raise in car ownership in the City of Copenhagen, and we had no raise in the traffic amount in the streets, the car traffic.  But we doubled the bicycling traffic.  So that’s a very special situation.  So if we had this success with cycling traffic in Copenhagen, we couldn’t just go to your city and do that because you might have 1% or 3% cycle traffic and we started off with a lot more than that. 

That was going to be one of my questions; back home we have something of a Catch-22 where people don’t feel safe enough to ride, and so the rate is very low, in the single digits.  But because the rate is low, elected officials are reluctant to pay for additional facilities because they say “Why?  There’s not very many people out there.”   Do you have any advice for bicycle supporters who want to…

Break the ice?

Exactly.

I think what they’ve done in New York is fantastic.  Bloomberg’s cycle tracks all over Manhattan is just fantastic.  But nobody uses them because in New York you don’t own a bike, you don’t know how to use it.  So I go walking in Manhattan and I see maybe ten bikers in my whole day.  And in the same area, the same size, downtown Copenhagen I might see 50,000 cyclists.  They did the best they could and made cycle tracks but they still have this break the ice problem, so you make it common to own a bike and use a bike.  In think in Copenhagen between 95 and 98% of Copenhageners own a bike and they all know how to use it.  20% of people own a car.  So that’s why a bike is the most normal way to get around in Copenhagen, so it’s a very different situation from starting off at zero and…whew!  How do you convince people that the bike is a good idea, and especially how do you convince bikers that it will be safe in the future.  It’s relatively safe in Copenhagen but you know as a car driver in Copenhagen when you turn right that you have to look back over your shoulder and there will be cyclists.  You can be sure there will be cyclists.  In your city you might be surprised if you saw a cyclist.  So it’s more dangerous, and very few cyclists, and some of those might be hit by cars.  It happens in Copenhagen, but compared to the amount of cycle traffic it’s few very.

SuburbsI assume in the suburbs of Copenhagen bicycling is less common, perhaps still quite common.  I don’t know where your jurisdiction exactly ends, but are there different strategies that you use in the less dense areas than in the city center?

No, not in Copenhagen, but the neighboring municipalities have the same strategies: bicycling tracks along all major roads.  But of course the distances get longer and car ownership might be 50% or 100% higher than we have in the City of Copenhagen, so they have a different modal split, and the further you get out into the finger system you have a modal split more like you have in the other countries.  So the parts of this region that are far away from the finger tips you have maybe 80% car modal split and 10% public transport and 10% cycling or something like that.  In the city of Copenhagen we have, if you take all trips, including all trips in and out of Copenhagen we have about 50% car traffic and 25% public transport and 25% cycling.  But if you look at the trips inside Copenhagen, and how do Copenhageners go to work in Copenhagen, then the cyclists’ share of the transport is 59%, close to 60%, so it’s just so common to do that.  And most amazing I think is that half of those who actually own a car—there are only one out of five that own a car—but half of those leave their car and use the bike for their daily transport.  The car is for the weekend.

FactorsI was interested to read on your website that the cyclists who were surveyed said that the number one reason they rode was because it’s easy and convenient.  I was a little surprised, because I thought that money would have played a bigger role in that choice.  Do you think that has to do with [car] parking?  I was thinking about that question of convenience and wondering if that’s because parking is scarce.

Well I had a trip… very few times a year I use my car, never for day to day transport.  Sunday I had a transport from my daughter’s old apartment to her new apartment within the dense part of the city.  One and a half hours it took me by car.  On a Sunday!  I could have done that in two and a half minutes on a bike. 

So it’s traffic?

It’s so much easier, yeah!  And there’s a lot of road work…we’re building Metro lines all over.  There’s a lot of road works.  And then it was impossible to find a parking and so on.  But it’s so much more convenient.  You like this, you use your body, and it’s the only sport I have, it’s one half hour in the morning and one half hour in the evening.

Of course.  Clear your head…

Yes, clear your head.   It’s funny.  You never have to wait for a parking place or public transport or anything.  You just go, you park your bike just outside.  You don’t have to look around, you just park. 

FundingCopenhagen has some ambitious plans for increasing the mode split and adding facilities.  How are these plans to be funded?  Are they currently funded and is there any question that they will be?

It’s very different from Mr. Bloomberg’s New York.  We have to pay for our cycle lanes by public money, by tax money.  Some of the other things we do to lower our car transport is to raise public transport by building Metro lines.  We do that in cooperation with the Danish state.  It’s also partly financed by the income from the ticket sales.  The cycle tracks and things are paid by tax money.

And that’s funded at 100%?  The plan you have, it’s a go?

Yeah. 

Great.  That’s been a problem in Seattle.  They have a plan, maybe not as ambitious, but pretty reasonable.  But the money isn’t there.

Yeah.  But there’s an agreement every year, the last five, six, seven years to raise the amount of money they use for cycle tracks, and it’s huge around town, you can really make a lot of bicycle tracks.  It takes a lot of time to plan it because you have to look after the cyclists, the pedestrians, the bus stops, the bus driving, the cars, and so on.  It’s not always easy but it’s a go.  There’s money for it.

BusesThat's fantastic.  You mentioned coordinating with buses, and trucks for instance.  What are some challenges you’ve had with those users of the road, and maybe some groups that represent them, and how have you addressed those challenges?

Well I think there might be groups that would like we didn’t have any bicycles at all, and to rebuild all the streets for cars, but they are not very big [inaudible] in Copenhagen.  Our main problem with lorries is that they might come from other countries and they do not know that when you turn right it’s dangerous to cyclists or the pedestrians.  So I think the former Lord Mayor, who started in 2006, the first year we had three of those accidents.  A lorry turned right and killed a child.  So we really had to do something to try to find some policies to avoid that.  And it’s really hard.  Some of our big crossing sections are rebuilt now, so they have a bicycles only phase.  So if I just go ahead on a bike I have my own green light.  And after that it’ll be the right turning light for the cars.  So we separate.  Normally situation is you all get green, direction north, so some are going north and others are turning right, to the east.  But you can separate that.  It reduces capacity to some degree, but it’s more safe.  I think that’s the way to do it.  Because you’re on the bike lane, which is separated from the car lanes with the curb and a difference of 15 centimeters, you feel safe, and you are pretty safe.  But in the crossings, the big signalized crossings, that’s where the accidents happen.  And if you have this conflict between turning wheels and bikes, it could be dangerous.  It’s also very hard for some places in the city for car drivers to turn right or the bus drivers to turn right, because there are so many bikes, and you have to wait and wait and wait.  So again it’s better to separate it, I think, the signals.  And reduce capacity a bit.  And then we’ve had too much success on this policy so we’ve had to rebuild some of the cycle tracks, for lots of money, 15 or 20 years ago.

To make them wider?

Yes, to make them wider.

What’s the preferred width today?

We started off normally with two and a half meters in each direction.  Some narrow streets we reduce it to two meters.  It’s terrible, the traffic.  We would like some of those to go to three or four meters.  And then we’d have to take away the cars.  Most of the cars.

SitingHow do you think factors outside of the road itself affect bicycling?

We built cycle lanes in Copenhagen since 1909.  More than 100 years.  Every year.  So it’s not like we suddenly decided to build things like that.  Like they did in Bloomberg’s New York.  It’s been all the way, through the centuries.  But in ’75 we pushed for better cycling politics, we discussed the difference between the Danish and the Swedish way to do it.  In Sweden they’ve built cycle lanes totally separated from the big streets, in green areas, though parks, where there’s room for that.  So we could have that situation where as a car driver you go directly from your dwelling area to your job on a big street, very fast.  And as a cyclist you have to go some routes behind and everything [makes a back-and-forth gesture].  Could be nice, to go some green routes, but it takes time, so we continued the old policy just to build on any street with some car traffic some cycle lanes.  Because that’s often the shortest way between A and B.  And in these streets often were shopping streets also where you could do your shopping.  We took away the parking possibilities in front of the shop and gave them a cycle lane with 10,000 cyclists on it, and they shop.  They shouldn’t be so scared about this but they are.

Unless they sell refrigerators.

Even that!  I’ve seen that too.  We’ve got special bikes for any purpose.  
                                    
So we added a policy of building green bike routes through the parks, combining parks and nice areas behind the big streets to give a possibility of going through a green, combined with the possibility of talking to your neighbor cyclist because on the big streets with lots of car traffic there’s a lot of noise and it’s hard to have a nice conversation.  So we started off building these very expensive special cycle routes, we had a plan for many kilometers of those, and we’ll add some of those, but it’s very expensive.  I think the best thing has been added to this cycle policy lately has been that we build bridges over barriers, so making the opposite situation of the one I told you about in Sweden versus Denmark.  We have situations now where you have a new developed area on one side of the harbor and a shopping center on the other side of the harbor and there’s a bridge for cyclists and pedestrians.  No cars.  So the absolute shortest way to get to and from is by bike.  So a shortcut where the other ones don’t get this shortcut.  That’s number one, that’s a very good idea.  We will build, in I think next year four more bridges and in the future even more bridges crossing the harbor.  To make it the fastest way to go from A to B.

We measure this sort of thing.  Have you seen this?  This is the bicycle account, have you seen it?

Yes, I was looking at this earlier.  You sent me to the web page…

Yes, so we try to measure that every year or every other year, to ask the bikers and other users: ‘how do you think about it?’  What do you think of Copenhagen as a cycling city, what do you think of the condition of the cycle tracks and so on, do you feel safe, what they like.  And then try to get a bit better on each one.  I think that’s an important part of the cycle policy.  Important to observe whether we are doing better or not.  What are the problems.  Then there’s a union of cyclists in Denmark and Copenhagen also, so we have conversations with those, like what do you call those automobile associations in USA…?

Triple A.

Yeah, AAA.  Yes, we have the same thing for cyclists.  They have some ideas, some lists about what should be better.  But they are floating in success because everything they point at we just do!

[Laughs]

[Laughs] So it’s a very win-win situation.  So just go biking! 

I know in the US when planners want to change the width of roadways or affect the turn radii, for instance, often there’s a conflict with emergency vehicles, or the emergency services will say: ‘we need a very wide turn because our trucks need to get in.’  Do you have that issue here?  Are emergency services involved in street design? 

Oh yes, but I don’t think it’s such a big problem.  They can turn around a corner.  They operate in old, narrow streets every day; that’s what Copenhagen looks like.  But corners are a severe conflict between turning lorries, fire trucks, and buses and so on, and bikes.  How to see that, how [inaudible] to see that, a bike on your side.   Something that you couldn’t have seen.  And that’s quite dangerous.  Of course we had to make street design, so every lorry, every bus can turn around the corner and…hopefully he looks in his mirror before he turns. 

Does the city have, for the lack of a better word, a cookbook for street designs in different situations?  For example, if you know that you have an intersection and you have a certain number of lanes coming in, do you have a design template that you refer to, or is each intersection design…

I guess some of my colleagues in the Center for Traffic and the center for actually building these things, both in the Department of Traffic and the Environment have something like that.  I don’t know about it.  There might be, I’m sure there are some manuals.  But also there is a change in these things all the time.  I can imagine that first things in the crossing giving cyclists a special signal.  They have their own small red, yellow, green, and the green for cyclists goes two seconds before green for cars.  So the cyclist is in the crossing before the car driver starts off.  So he can see the cyclist.  Next phase was to shorten off the waiting lines for the cars so the last five or ten meters are for cyclists.  So a cyclist can go all the way to the light, to the crossing, but cars are going to stop some meters behind him.  And then they can see the cyclist.  And then third phase you can enlarge the waiting area for cyclists to be the half of the street so that they actually stop in front of the cars.  So even the cars heading right away have to wait until the cyclist has left the waiting area in front.  So they can be sure they can see the cyclist.

I don’t know that I have seen one of those yet in Copenhagen. 

Oh there are many of those.

There are? Okay, maybe I just didn’t notice.  Yeah, we call those bike boxes.  Is that the same?

SignalsYeah.  And then the later thing in the very big, dangerous crossing sections we have a policy of separating the signals, with different phases for right-turning cars and cycling drivers.   But we’re still improving it, and finding better and better, and we have a lot better accident situation now than we used to have.  When I started it was 120 killed per year in the capital, and now it’s about ten, twelve on the bad years.  Maybe five, eight in good years.  And they have a mode split like one third cyclists, one third pedestrians, and one third motorbikes.  So typically we have three killed as cyclists.  That’s three too many, but we have many streets with 20,000 cyclists per day.

If you think about the rate, it’s incredibly low.  Seattle gets maybe one cyclist killed per year, but it’s a city about half the size of Copenhagen [ed. This is incorrect.  The Copenhagen and Seattle cities proper are about the same size], but we have far fewer riders. 

[Chatter]

CurrentDo you have any final advice for me as I prepare to go back to the USA and change the world?

You should show them the film, I think I sent you on the website.  It’s a nice film.  Of course the film is made by someone who likes to bike, but many, many, many Copenhageners love to bike.  It’s fun, it’s healthy, it’s just…try it!  You’ll love it!  And then work to get better and better conditions to bikers.  I don’t think it’s easy.  You have some work in front of you.  Even my Swedish colleagues in the traffic planning were more used to biking than you might be in the States.  [Inaudible]  But you don’t mean that people with little children go by bike.  Most children families in Copenhagen do not have a car and they have an even more positive attitude to cycling than the average.  It’s okay, what’s the problem?  Even in the winter, yeah.  You just go by bike.

We had two problems, of course not so wonderful.  We had more and more car owners—it’s still a low figure, maybe 200 out of 1000 have a car.  But some of those car drivers, they go with their kids to the school in the morning, and kiss and ride, and go to their job.  That gives some car traffic around the schools that shouldn’t be there.  They should go by bike and teach their children to go by bike to the school.  And then maybe go back and get their car, I don’t know.  You have to really, really make campaigns to teach the parents.  You might have a car, you might go by car to job, but you should spend the ten minutes on your bike, with your kids to school.  That’s the way to go to school.  So when you’re ten years old you should be able to go by bike in Copenhagen. 

And the other challenge is that all those people coming from Turkey, or Pakistan, or Afghanistan come from cultures where girls are not allowed to bike.  It’s against something in their religion.  So these girls don’t bike.  So we have to do some special bike schools to teach them how to use a bike.  To teach them and their parents that it’s okay for a girl to go biking in Copenhagen, and that it’s important to do so.  If you want to be able to use the city you need to have a bike to get around.  So women from Third World countries and these parents, that’s a long challenge we have.  To make it even better.

Saturday, November 6, 2010

Shared space, accessible space

The best route from Vesterbro (my neighborhood) to Nørrebro (some friends' neighborhood) passes through a woonerf, or shared space.  Shared spaces are zones where cars, bikes, and pedestrians are on equal footing.  There are no sidewalks and no lanes.  The idea is that motorists are more attentive and drive more safely when they have to negotiate with pedestrians and bicyclists for the same piece of roadway.  I found myself at this spot today, and decided to stop and take a few pictures so I could share it with you.

If you'd like to see exactly where I'm taking about, click here for a Google map and streetview.

In this first photo we're entering the area from south.  You can see the special signage on the post that indicates this is a shared space.  The speed limit is 15 KPH, or a little over 9 MPH.  Notice all the people milling about in the middle of the road.  This how streets were used before the car was invented.  They were social spaces--maybe even the primary social spaces--as well as facilities for transporting goods and people.


Beyond signage, you can signal the transition to an environment like this by changing the character of the roadway.  You can paint a pattern on the road, or use a different paving material, like brick.  You can also change the grade of the road, giving travelers a physical cue that they're dealing with a new set of rules.  Here, Copenhagen planners used a subtle change of grade.



On the other end of the shared space environment we have these bollards, which allow bicyclists and pedestrians to pass while diverting motorized traffic.  Cars can still enter the site from the south, but because it's not a through route, volumes are low.


A playground blends seamlessly with the road.


Maybe you've guessed by now that I am a fan of shared spaces.  I've read the data and am amazed at how well they perform on safety, throughput, and aesthetics.  They should be deployed more widely than they are today.

One of the challenges that holds the shared space concept back is the fact they they can be disorienting to the blind.  Blind people rely on sensible materials and edges to maneuver through a city.  Take away the curbs, and you've taken away their guide rails.  With this in mind I took a look around this shared space to see if the city has addressed that problem.  I was pleased to find the following solution.

As you step into the shared space you are greeted by an array of metallic truncated domes in the pavement, which you can feel through your shoes.  These are similar to the yellow textured pads that you see on new crosswalk ramps in the US.  Leading from the array is a row of metal ridges that lead you across the square.  Let's pretend that black car is not parked over the ridges for a moment, shall we?



And ignore this shopkeeper's cart too.  Here we have an intersection of routes, and another array of dome to signal that you've reached a decision point.


True, these pictures reveal a flaw in the system, but in general I love the idea.

Monday, November 1, 2010

A confession

When my carry-on luggage gets selected for additional screening at the airport, there's a little part of me that's flattered by the attention.

Wednesday, October 27, 2010

Venice Biennale

Early last week I got back from the 2010 International Architecture Exhibition in Venice, also known as the Biennale.  It's a massive collection of exhibits by architecture firms from around the world.  The theme this year was "People Meet in Architecture," though it seemed to me that most entrants pursued their own ideas.  And some of those ideas were pretty far out: a cloud suspended in a room.  An array of hoses, hanging down from the ceiling of a darkened warehouse, whipping around as they spray water, illuminated by strobe lights.  Synthetic sea fans that twitch and move as you come close.  Check it out (plus my photos of Venice): http://www.flickr.com/photos/patrickandkristen/sets/72157625176397508/detail/

Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Ørestad Part 2

Continued from part 1

The first thing you notice when you arrive at Ørestad City--by bike, at least--is that it's difficult to tell that you've arrived.  After entering the site from the west I found myself in an ambiguous space surrounded by parking lots, a few department stores, and the rear ends of apartment buildings.  In the hour I spent criss-crossing the site, I never found the "100% corner."  I don't think there is one.  Not yet at least.

What I did find were some classic urban design blunders.


The elevated Metro line slices through the center of Ørestad from north to south, creating a ribbon of these shadowed interzones through the development.  While they've been spruced up with landscaping and water features, they still feel like smaller versions of the Alaska Way Viaduct: okay during the day, perhaps, but spooky at night and lacking in street life.  I'm not going to blame the designers of Ørestad for creating the problem.  I doubt the planning of the Metro was under their control.  But it is unfortunate that the physical center of this town is a series of underpasses.

Just up the street I found a much less forgivable condition.  Get a load of this facade.

There is no excuse for such an antisocial frontage in a dense, urban area--especially on a main drag.  In a city like Copenhagen this comes across as surprisingly inept.  I wonder how the development regulations missed it.  By the way, notice that utility cabinet.  After only a few years in this unwatched space it stands dented and vandalized.

Under the train tracks, on the east side of Ørestad City, we have the only collection of leased street-level commercial space I found during my visit.

You feel like you're about 2 feet tall while walking along this streetwall, thanks to that cladding that extends, unvaryingly, from the top of the entranceways to something like 50' up.  That's beyond your peripheral vision when you're looking straight ahead, so you get the sense that it continues up forever.  The outdoor seating is right there in the walkway, no awning, alcove, or ropes to give you some psychological separation from the public way.  Compare this to an image I took of the streetwall along the main drag of Greenville, SC (my sweetie's home town).  Where would you choose to sit to drink your cup of coffee?


There are things I liked about Ørestad.  All the residents are within walking distance of a Metro stop.


Between that and the long term plan for the town, which calls for a mix of shopping, employment, and housing, the vehicle miles traveled for Ørestad residents (and, consequently, their carbon emissions) will probably be low.  I couldn't read the Danish-language promotional materials, but I got the impression that the area uses advanced wastewater treatment techniques.  I'm sure the buildings are built to high environmental standards.  And then there's that wind turbine we saw in the previous post.

I liked the look of the buildings, generally.  They were fresh without any Gehry-like absurdity.



In other positive impressions, I was surprised at how much I enjoyed the central green.  It's a large space, surrounded by apartment blocks.  Here's a model of it that I spotted at Denmark's exhibit at the Venice Biennale, so you can get a sense of the scale.  North is toward the upper left.

 And here's a photo from the ground level.



I was prepared to dismiss it as Radiant City folly; Corbusier's "towers in a park" scheme was the inspiration for some of the most tragic and alienating urban planning of the 20th century.  Maybe it was because the sun was shining that day, or maybe it's because this area is new and entropy hasn't set in, but I thought the grassy area was quite pleasant.  There were families using the playgrounds.  Mounds--like you see on the left of the above photo--divided up the space into more manageable pieces, so you never felt overwhelmed. If I had to improve it, I would only add commerce to the center, maybe some food vendors, to give people a reason to visit and to create a hub for people watching.

...

Ørestad is struggling.  Many of the commercial spaces are empty and there aren't many people walking around.  That's especially disappointed considering how much I want places like this to succeed.  On paper it's doing the big things right.  It's got the density.  It's oriented around transit.  It mixes uses.  This is what we must do as a society if we're going to tame climate change and rebuild our cities.  Maybe Ørestad's slump will pass in time.  Maybe more residents will trickle in, and businesses will follow, and you'll have more people on the street than I saw.  But even if it fills up completely, you've got irreversible damage at the street level.  It's just not a pleasant place to walk around.


For example, look at the ground floor of the building to the right.  How could a sucking void like this have been constructed here?  Street-level garages like this one are banned along Eastlake Ave, a comparable street in my old neighborhood in Seattle.  Seattle's pretty progressive when it comes to urbanism, but I wouldn't expect it to outperform Copenhagen.  And yet here we are. 

I think part of the problem has to do with the way Ørestad was created.  A handful of architectural firms were given design control over individual portions of the development.  They each had a blank slate.  In that vacuum, with no context to draw upon, they all built monuments.  Nobody built the ordinary buildings that form the fabric of a city.  Don't get me wrong, I like monuments when appropriately spaced.  But a town that's entirely monuments is like a party guest who begins every sentence with the word "I."

The experience of visiting Ørestad got me thinking about a book I read recently, The Timeless Way of Building.  In it, author Christopher Alexander encourages the architecture and urban design communities to seek common languages of design, or "pattern languages."  Users of a pattern language are free to innovate within commonly understood limits.  For example, some communities might reach a consensus that the right height of its buildings is four stories, but that the colors should be up to the owner.  Like the syntax of a spoken language, a pattern language might also mandate that some classes of design features must be paired with others; buildings must have sidewalks or pedestrian pathways, for example. 

In Ørestad can you see what happens when builders lack a shared language of design.  Instead of a city you get a collection of buildings.  I don't know all of Ørestad's backstory, or who did what job.  But I hope as the city continues to develop the area it attends to this problem. Short of a consensus among architects about what constitutes good urbanism, we need someone overseeing these projects whose job it is enforce some basic constraints.

Monday, October 18, 2010

Agh! It's dripping funny smelling water on me!

I recently got an envelope from my sweetie back in the USA.  Oh boy!  As I handled it I noticed it was thicker than a sheet of paper.  I opened it up and tipped out the contents into my hand.

'Gee, how did these get past customs?' I wondered.  After dutifully swallowing a few and waiting an hour, my gut told me that maybe they weren't pills after all.  No, they were something much better: toy sponges!

Like Bart Simpson in 3F02, I had diabolical plans for these babies.



So I popped one in a glass of water.  It sat there doing nothing.  I poked it.  It bobbed.  I waited.  And waited.  15 minutes went by.  Then another.

Finally the gelatin coating dissolved enough to release its monstrous contents.  I peered down...


So I'm thinking,

Right?

But a few minutes later I saw that, in fact, I had a giraffe on my hands.


Majestic?  Yes.  Absurd?  Sadly no.

Monday, October 11, 2010

Ørestad Part 1

Sunday was a beautiful, crisp fall day here in Copenhagen, and I took the opportunity to visit a place I've heard a lot about: Ørestad. Ørestad is a “new town,” a built-from-scratch development outside of the city. Fellow students described it (positively) as a showcase of modern architecture, but always with the caveat that the street life “is weird” or “doesn't work.” The City of Bellevue, where I've interned for the past two years, is working with Sound Transit and the private sector to develop the areas around the East Link light rail stations, and this seemed like a good opportunity to see how Copenhagen—a smart growth giant—performed when it got a similar chance.

The Danish parliament passed the enabling legislation for Ørestad in the early 1990s as part of a long term plan to channel growth and boost the competitiveness of the region.  The Øresund bridge, which now links Copenhagen and Malmö, Sweden, was also included in that plan. The legislation created a company—jointly owned by the Copenhagen municipality and the state—to oversee an architecture competition and to develop the site. If all goes according to plan, Ørestad will some day be home to 20,000 people and 80,000 jobs. A strip of land about 3 miles long and 2000' wide, it straddles an impressive confluence of infrastructure: a regional rail line, a metro line, bus lines, arterials, and a motorway leading to the Øresund bridge. It's a monster TOD by Western standards.

I approached Ørestad by bike, across the Sjællandsbroen (“Zealand Bridge”) which connects mainland Copenhagen to Amager island across the Kalvebodløbet waterway.  You can see Ørestad rising in the background of this photo.

Ørestad's far enough from the central city that I'm guessing your typical cyclist won't be pedaling out there.  It feels like it's in the middle of nowhere.  

Speaking of, you might expect transportation planners to cut corners in this context, painting a bike lane instead of pouring a grade-separated cycle track, for instance.  You'd be wrong.  I was on paths and tracks the entire four miles from my apartment building to the site.  That's one of the great things about Copenhagen.  You can trust the network, even through the least-trafficked segments.  In the U.S. the infrastructure would have shriveled up and died on the side of some 50 mph highway, leaving me to white-knuckle it along the shoulder.  I'm convinced that, especially for vulnerable users, the chain is only as strong as its weakest link.

Moving on now.  Here are a couple of shots to show you just how strange this place looks from the outside.  You've got avant-garde, high-density architecture next to a wind turbine, next to...a huge empty field?

When I was a kid I read a sci-fi short story about the last humans on a 50th-century Earth.  They ran out the clock by sailing around and using nanoassemblers to conjure up replicas of cities from the wasteland.  I was reminded of that story while standing here, alone between the shiny new buildings and the not-quite-natural grassland of the Amager Fælled.

 

Saturday, October 9, 2010

Balkans expenses

Kristen and I traveled through six of the Balkan states back in August, and it was interesting to see how much prices varied from country to country.  It felt like a big spread.  Since then I've wanted to see that data in a graphical format, so with some time today I went ahead and made a chart.  The green line is a three day rolling average, and the gray dots are individual withdrawals, with $0 values for the days when we didn't withdraw anything. 


As I remembered, Macedonia and Albania were the least expensive, with prices going up as you go north toward Central Europe.  The overall average day was about $125 for the two of us.  That does not include plane tickets, but it does include a five day car rental in Slovenia.  Not too shabby!

Sunday, October 3, 2010

A day in my life

Hello friends and family!  I've prepared a photo tour of one of my typical days here in Copenhagen.  Below is a map with numbers; these correspond to the numbered photos below.  We'll be following my commute, starting at my apartment building, riding through town to school, and then back again.

 


1.
This is the front entrance of Otto Mønteds Kollegium ('Danmarks Bedste Kollegium!'), where I live.  Kollegiums (Kollegia?) are basically unaffiliated dorms--students from any school can live in one.  My floor is all graduate students.

Built in 1956 and very much of its time, OMK isn't the prettiest building to look at from the outside, but the rooms are nice and so is the social atmosphere.  In the foreground is my bike.  It's too small for me, but it's zippy. 

2.
And we're off.  We've hopped on the bike and are leaving Rektorparken street and joining the main road.  On the left is the old Carlsberg brewery.


3.


Now we're headed east on Ingerslevsgade, which parallels the track tracks that enter town from the west.  As you can see there's not a lot to look at on this stretch of road, but, being next to the tracks, there are few cross streets to deal with so you can cover a lot of ground quickly.  That's good in my case, because I live relatively far from my school.

4.
We've arrived in the city center and are passing by the central train station, also known as Hovedbanegård.  I just call it the central station.  Lot of bikes here.  This is the overflow parking.  There are rows and rows of racks on the other sides of this building and they're always packed.

Behind the station you can see one of the rides in Tivoli, Copenhagen's amusement park/promenade/fair food spot.  I think it just closed for the season, but it will reopen for Christmas, when they deck it out.  Kristen, we're definitely going.

5.
We're still in the center, crossing a canal.  I cheated with this photo--my actual route is the road on the right, but this was the better shot.  That dome in the upper right is the Christiansborg Palace Chapel, and the green spire to the left is the steeple of the Nikolaj Church, Copenhagen's first church, which was built in 1200.  The copper-clad steeple is circa 1909.  Nowadays the building is used as an art center.

6.
We've gone past the chapel and have taken a right; now we're looking back over our right shoulder at this statue of Frederik VII, which was installed ten years after the king died, in 1873.  Frederik is notable for overseeing the adoption of Denmark's first democratic constitution.  I like to imagine that this gentleman and his long-suffering horse are showing me to the way to school, gesturing with his outstretched hand.

7.
We're crossing another canal, out of the city center an into the neighborhood of Christianshavn.  This is an artificial island, built in the early 17th century.  On a canal tour I took with the other international students, the guide told us that the king at the time had to offer tax benefits to entice people to live there, since it was unpleasantly marshy and wind-swept.  Now it's a hip part of town.

8.
A plaza in Christianshavn, just off Torvegade.  This is the middle of the day, so there aren't too many people around other than those guys on the left, drinking on the benches.  I'm pretty sure they were Greenland natives (Greenland was a Danish colony).  Sadly, alcoholism and rootlessness seem to be common problems in that community.

9.
We've turned left off of Torvegade and are riding northeast along Prinsessagade.  This picture doesn't do it justice, but the spiraling steeple of the Vor Frelsers Kirke (Church of Our Savior) is one of the highlights of my ride.  It shines a brilliant gold in the sun. 

10.
Past the Church of Our Savior, on the right, we ride by the main entrance to Christiania, Copenhagen's famous "experimental community."  Christiania got its start back in the '70s, when hippies took over a naval base and repurposed it as a commune.  To me, Christiania seems a mixed success.  You still have healthy, happy families there, doing their communal living thing.  On the other hand, the open sale of marijuana and freewheeling vibe has attracted organized crime and a raft of junkies and burnouts.

11.
Continuing down Prinsessegade, we see the fence marking off Christiania, which residents have decorated with some well-done graffiti murals.

12.
We cross another canal...

13.
And another...

14.
...until we finally arrive at my school.  This is Building Y, home to the department of architecture, city, and landscape.  There are 9 departments at the Arkitektskole, numbered 1 - 11 (two are defunct).  Each has a three-word title, and they range in scope from large (city planning) to small (furniture design).  The school is located in Holmen, a decommissioned naval base that escaped the attention of those Christiania hippies.  Let's go inside, shall we? 

15.
This is my desk.  I just got assigned it the other week.


16.
A few of my Department 1 classmates.  On the left is Francis, from England, and on the right is Gunnar, from Iceland.  This last week we were working on an assignment in which we had propose, rapid fire, a series of interventions for a neighborhood in Copenhagen. 

17.
Back outside, we've walked west and are passing by a row of housing.  This is one of those "home zone" or "woonerf" road treatments I heard so much about back in the US: no curbs, very slow traffic.  Good show, sirs, good show.


18.
Now we're at the western edge of my campus, looking at some boats that are tied up in a canal.  Beyond is the harbor.  During the first week of school, teams of first year students had to cross this canal as a sort of game or hazing ritual.  They all dressed up in costumes; there was lots of laughing and falling in the water.  Luckily for them, the water in Copenhagen's harbor is clean enough to swim in.

19.
The nice thing about going to an architecture school is that you are surrounded by fancy, artsy stuff.  Like this, an exhibit of the work of architect Kristin Jarmund.

20.
High tea with the cats in Department 11.  I thank the English students for introducing me to this ritual.  From left to right: Francis (England), Sally (New Zealand), Mario (Spain), Hollie (England).

21.
We're headed back home now.  This is rush hour on Copenhagen's cycle tracks.  No spandex here.  No mercy either.  If you aren't quick off the blocks, or break an unwritten rule, you'll get the business.
22.
 
Our tour ends with dinner in my floor's shared kitchen.  These are a few of the wonderful people I live and eat with: Felippe, Johan, Lauge, Ida, and Steffen.

And that's it.  I hope you enjoyed a day in my life.